1. Press magazine catch with right thumb and, at same time, withdraw magazine from receiver. Pull slide to rear and look in chamber to see that gun is not loaded. Close slide and pull trigger so hammer is down.
2. With thumb, press inward on knurled end of plug, at same time rotating barrel bushing, turn clockwise to free plug and recoil spring assembly. Rest heel of gun on table so both hands may be used.
3. Remove plug and recoil spring. If spring does not come free easily, rotate plug in counter-clockwise direction to separate plug from recoil spring.
4. Rotate barrel bushing counter-clockwise until disengaged from slide. Remove barrel bushing.
5. Slide is pulled to rear until lug on slide stop is opposite clearance notch on slide. Rounded end of slide stop pin protruding on right side of receiver is pushed inward by finger of left hand, which disengages slidestop from slide.
6. Remove slide stop.
7. Pull receiver group to rear and off slide. Recoil spring guide can now be lifted out.
8. Push link forward and remove barrel from front of slide.
9. With hammer cocked, rotate safety lock almost to “On” position. It can now be pulled to left and away from receiver.
10. Remove hammer pin.
11. Lift out hammer assembly.
12. Using hammer strut, punch out mainspring housing pin.
13. Slide mainspring housing off receiver.
14. Lift out grip safety.
15. Lift out sear spring.
16. Remove sear pin.
17. Lift out sear and disconnector. Note relationship of these parts to facilitate reassembly.
18. Depress magazine catch from left side; at same time rotate magazine catch lock 1/4 turn counter-clockwise using lip of sear spring as screwdriver. Magazine catch assembly is then removed from right side of receiver. Catch assembly can be reduced to components by turning lock clockwise 1/4 turn. Spring and lock will come out.
19. Remove trigger.
20. With hammer strut, push out link pin, separating link from barrel.
21. With hammer strut, push in on firing pin. At same time place fingernail against top edge of firing pin stop and push downward, freeing firing pin stop from recess in slide.
22. Remove firing pin stop. Firing pin assembly can now be removed from slide.
23. With hammer strut, pry out and remove extractor.
24. Separate firing pin from firing pin spring.
If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to leave a comment to get in touch with me. I check my email often and will get back to you ASAP.
February 4, 2007 at 12:34 pm
I will be checking often to see how this page is comeing.
October 15, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Hello,
I saw you used my YouTube videos on your site. I was actually pretty excited to see them on here. I’m glad they came to use from someone.
Happy Shooting,
Ryan Evick
November 3, 2007 at 1:33 pm
Great videos gunner…
best ive seen for takin apart a 1911 and reassembly also thanks for the work ya put into
thease
November 3, 2007 at 2:26 pm
Dion,
It’s honestly my pleasure! Anything I can add to the blog to help fellow shooters is a big plus. It’s really become a labor of love. The blog started out pretty small but the more time I put into it and the welcome feedback telling me the features are helpful means a great deal to me!
Thanks so very much!
Phil
November 22, 2007 at 6:58 pm
How about a footnote on the difficulty of re-assembling a Kimber with a 30 lb spring and reverse barrel bushing? Love the gun but hate to break it down.
February 13, 2008 at 11:55 pm
Thanks very much for the video. I had a helluva time getting the firing pin stop slid out even with the firing pin held back by the firing pin block. It’s been so long since I owned a 1911 that I forgot and figured I was doing something wrong.It’s a Taurus 1911 SS that was new. Surely machining burrs caused this.
Otherwise it functioned well. Thanks again!
February 14, 2008 at 12:03 am
Russell,
Glad to be of help. I know what the problem was. With the Taurus and other 1911’s with that series 80 type safety unless you depress the circular spring loaded piece inside the slide it will keep the firing pin from going all the way in even if it’s locked under the firing pin stop.
It’s a little awkward but you use whichever finger makes it easier for you and keep that piece depressed as you slide the firing pin stop in. It goes in pretty easy then. Of course with a series 70 you don’t have to deal with that series 80 system. Thanks much for your comment!
Take Care,
Phil
February 17, 2008 at 8:21 pm
Bought my first 1911 last month and think it is the best handling shooter I own. The assembly and disassembly video is like a Christmas present, I watch it several times a week. Made cleaning and maintenance a breeze. Thanks, Jerry
February 17, 2008 at 8:28 pm
Jerry,
I’m glad you’re enjoying the new 1911. They are some kind of fantastic pistol. When you realize it’s almost 100 years old you can really appreciate John Brownings design genius!
That’s great that the videos are helping you. I put them up there hoping people would get some use out of them and it’s nice to hear you are!
Feel free to download them to your computer if you want. There is a link to do that under each video. Thanks for your comments!
Phil
February 23, 2008 at 9:54 am
The best explanation and video on Colt1911-’70, I own S&W1911, was told the safety is different,
so I don’t want to disassembly until I see the u-tube on S&W1911. Is it the same as colt’80 safety ? Is it the same as your U-tube or more difficult ?
Thanks,
Pong
February 23, 2008 at 10:21 am
Pong,
I thank you sir! The S&W safety system is different than the series 70 of course but the S&W is the same as the series 80 takedown procedure. Just disassemble as you would an 80 series by making sure the small notch that sticks up at the rear of the slide is depressed as you push the slide over it. That way the piece, which is part of the safety,isn’t bent by the slide impacting it. No force is needed when this piece is depressed. Simply depress this then slowly push the slide to the rear until it clears.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions:-)
Phil
April 11, 2008 at 9:48 pm
Great disassebly/assembly videos. Thanks! I recently purchased a Colt M1991A1 Series 80 (2007 year model). I have a few questions I hope you can answer; 1)What’s the difference between a model 1911 and a 1991? 2)whats the difference in a Series 80 and a series 70? 3) Will my M1991A1 disassemble and reasemmble like the one in the video?
Thanks
Vic Saunier
Gonzales, LA
April 12, 2008 at 12:53 am
Vic,
I sent you a pretty long email. I hope it helps you out.
Phil
May 7, 2008 at 7:51 pm
Can I take the series 80 parts out of my Thompson when I reassemble it? Will taking these parts out impede the sooting process? I am having a very hard time putting it back together with those two series 80 parts in the frame.
June 9, 2008 at 1:17 am
Man, The videos are awesome, It’s my first time on your site. I’ve learned a lot just watching the vids, but I wonder if you could do a video disassembling a series 80, I can’t put it back together.
pre-thanks.
June 9, 2008 at 12:54 pm
Rod,
I’m glad the videos helped! I hope you enjoy the blog–there is a lot on 1911’s in there. Maybe I can help right now with getting your series 80 back together.
The only difference between the 70 and 80 series is the safety system otherwise they are the same. I know the part that’s giving you trouble and it’s a pretty common thing to happen. There are two pieces to the new safety you can see. One is a round small spring loaded circular button inside the slide at the rear. You can press down on it and feel the spring pressure. That’s not a problem though. The problem your having is a part on the frame. It’s a small lever that sticks up from the from by the right slide rail behind about where the trigger would be underneath. When you put the slide on and run it back on the rails this little lever will stick up blocking slide travel any further back. Just put the slide on the frame move it back and about the time it just over the trigger you’ll see it. Just use your thumb to hold it down flush with the frame and ease the slide over it and continue moving it backwards. That will allow the slide to clear the pesky thing and you’ll be able to move it one back to where you need it to complete assembly just like the video. That’s really the only difference.
What that small lever does is depress that round spring loaded piece when you pull the trigger but as I said when that slide goes back it pops up and blocks the slide. It is kinda small so it’s not obvious at all. Some series 80 guns the lever doesn’t rotate up until the rear of the slide is almost over it which makes it hard to notice.
That should solve your assembly problem though. Like I said all else is the same. Let me know if you have any other problems I’m always glad to help.
Take Care and happy shooting~
Phil
June 11, 2008 at 1:03 am
Phil,
Thanks again for the info, it’s all clear now. It’s too bad that I’m out of town right now, so I can’t reach my gun. I was having trouble with the safety parts, and I will check the lever in the frame too.
Thanks a lot buddy.
Rod.
June 11, 2008 at 9:26 am
Rod,
I’m always glad to help so if you need anything at all just email me.
Phil
June 11, 2008 at 9:35 am
Thanks a lot Phil.
I’ll be in touch.
June 11, 2008 at 3:30 pm
Rod,
Just holler any time you need anything:-)
Phil
June 26, 2008 at 8:21 am
I recently purchased a Springfield Armory 1911. It has an Ed Brown bushingless barrell in it. I am able to remove the slide from the frame, but I can’t remove the spring, guide rod and barrell. What am I doing wrong? Every other 1911 I have owned had a barrell bushing. This is a first for me. Thank you!
June 26, 2008 at 8:54 pm
Hi Brian,
Sorry it took me a little while to get back to you. I’ve been gone most of the day. I’ve attached the user guide for the Kimber Pro/Compact which uses the bushingless barrel and has the most common takedown method for bushingless barrels. It’s fairly simple but can really confuse you at first. Believe me your not the first to have trouble with this so don’t feel bad:-)
Read page 29,30,31 for instructions on disassembly of this type of barrel. Note the small tool that goes into the small hole in the guide rod. You will need this to hold the springs back in order to remove the barrel.
This should make it pretty clear but in the event it doesn’t work on your pistol just let me know and I can help you with the other types of bushingless barrel disassembly.
I’m always glad to help so just email me if you have any other questions.
Happy Shooting!
Phil
July 10, 2008 at 10:05 am
i have purchassed a rock island armory 1911 and the only problem i,ve had is that the left side saftey pin keeps coming out during fire and what i call dry cocking for lack of better term never did any dry firing of the fine firearm though i repeat no dry firing of this firearm i grew up watching audy murphy and john wayne and fell in love with wwII firearms at a very young age if anybody has any suggestions on how to resolve this issue i,m having with this firearm it would be greatly appreciated thank and good shooting
July 10, 2008 at 2:57 pm
Hi Julian,
I just sent you an email reply and I’m sure I can help you resolve this. I look forward to hearing from you.
Phil
September 27, 2008 at 9:00 pm
awesome videos. im about to put my first 1911 together this weekend. these vids def help alot. the only thing i am unsure about is how to compress the main spring housing parts. my kit didnt come with that disassembly pin. whats teh trick to that?
October 30, 2008 at 3:31 am
These videos have been a huge help even more so since the first firearm I have bought is a rock island 1911… I was able to take it apart and put it back togeather flawlessly multiple times infact one of my friends who was teaching me alittle about it did the same…however I have run into a huge problem that I just cant get around so here goes…. When I put the barrel back in put the spring back in slide the gun slide back on and try to line up the hole to put the pin in… nothing i can do now will get it to line up right no matter what I try… my friend and I spent approx 2 and a half hours trying to get it to go back in like it did the first 10 times with no luck, suggestions?
October 30, 2008 at 12:17 pm
Hi Bo,
That’s not an uncommon problem. The easiest way to get that sometimes pesky slide release in is to hold the pistol in your right hand with enough tension to keep the slide back about even with where it would be if the slide release was in then hold the pistol with the barrel up at an almost 90 degree angle so the barrel link drops back even with the hole in the frame. You can usually see when the link hole and the frame hole are lined up. Then take your left hand and place the pin in the hole and if needed work it back and forth a little and it should go all the way in. At that point release the slide and work the release the rest of the way in. I place the pin in then use my thumb to push up at the rear of the release until it compresses the small spring and drops into place flush with the frame.
Let me know if you have any problems and need some additional help.
All the best
Phil
December 11, 2008 at 10:08 pm
Great video, truly helpful. I have an Auto Ord. 1911, can I use the same procedure to disasemble?
I am having one problem wit it, when I rack the slide or fire it, the slide travels a bit past the hold open notch and locks up. I have had the gun a number of years and this is the first trouble I have had with it. Any suggestions? Thank you very much. Barry
December 12, 2008 at 6:31 pm
Barry,
I’m glad the videos helped you and yes they apply to your pistol. What I started this morning was to say that frequently when the slide goes forward after you have it back togther is that the pin ob the slide stop missed the hole in the barrel link when you put it back together. I think we’ve all done that a few times. If you hold the gun barrel up as you put the slide stop in the link falls back in place so the pin fits as it should and everything locks up as it should.
Please let me know if you need any help.
Phil
December 20, 2008 at 10:11 pm
This website very good for me.
December 20, 2008 at 10:19 pm
thank you for the comment. I’m very glad you found the blog useful!
Thank You,
Phil
February 4, 2009 at 7:18 pm
What a life saver….got my RIA 1911 apart to clean (NEW)….just couldn’t get the sear and disconnect and combination spring in right….the video cleared it ALL up and the gun is back together and works great.
I’m going to disassemble and assemble it over and over till I can do it my sleep.
Thanks a million
WDH
February 5, 2009 at 4:59 pm
the bushing on the front of my 45 is not a one piece fitting that fits over the barrel spring. it has a outside ring that will push down easily but the inside pin will not go down far enough to allow me to extract the front barrel spring.
It hasn’t been shot in a number of years. What can I do to allow me to get that piece out and allow me to pull the barrel spring?
February 11, 2009 at 9:24 pm
I have an Auto Ord. The springs are heavy duty, it takes a lot of effort to rack the slide.Should I get lighter springs? Is there an advantage to heavy springs? i would like to make the gun more accurate I can keep all the rounds in the black at 15 yards but would like to tighten the group. What would be the best parts to replace?
Thanks for the help, I can break the gun down to its basic parts after watching your video and a lot of practice. I would like to replace the basic military sights with a three dot system, any suggestions?
March 21, 2009 at 7:29 pm
i looking for an 9 m millennium tauras slide spring
March 21, 2009 at 8:55 pm
http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/TaurusNF.html#Recoil
April 7, 2009 at 7:46 pm
Is this a 70 Series? My 1911 firing pin comes out a little differently….there is another button on the bottom of the slide that I have to push to get the firing pin completely depressed…and I assumed it had something to do with the firing pin safety/series 80 thingy magigy.
April 7, 2009 at 8:26 pm
Mike,
It seems that several makers have decided to use about three different types of safties. They use the standard series 70,series 80 as well as a rework of the old Schwartz safety.
Your 1911 is using the series 80 type and yes the only way to completely remove the firing pin is to depress the button inside the slide. You just remove the small plate that holds the pin in place, after that just depress that button all the way and it will come out then. Most of them don’t have springs strong enough to make it fly across the room but some do so it’s best to hang on when you depress that button.
Take care,
Phil
May 16, 2009 at 11:18 pm
Great videos……… I have a Taurus PT1911 and I was wondering if you would know if it would disassemble the same way as the Springfield in the video does………..
May 17, 2009 at 9:59 am
Joe,
It sure does. The Taurus uses a safety similar to the series 80 but assembly and all is the same. You got a great pistol believe me! Glad the videos helped!
Phil
June 9, 2009 at 1:45 am
You can use the grip safety spring as a screwdriver when stripping the 1911A1 if necessary… (soldiers don’t usually carry screwdrivers in their packs do they?) I don’t recommend it, but possible in a pinch. I have used it before to release the magazine safety screw when I didn’t have a screwdriver. It’s nice that the 1911A1’s own parts are so thoughtfully designed as to be the necessary tools for assembly/disassembly. Also, I don’t know if my 1911A1 is made differently than yours, but I don’t have to lock in the mainspring like you do to strip mine.
June 10, 2009 at 1:14 pm
Hi Gunner- great videos; I have a Springfield Loaded model with the ambie thumb safety; how does that come apart?
Thanks!
June 10, 2009 at 5:34 pm
Joe,
It’s pretty much the same except when you pull the left thumb safety out you go ahead and pull the right one out as well. You then put the left in first then the right. There is a notch between the two that has to be lined up as well. Otherwise they are pretty much the same.
Good luck!
Phil
June 19, 2009 at 10:07 am
I can’t get the YouTube on this (disassembly) to come up here. Can you give me the URL for the video on YouTube or another citation. THANKS